A/W 2020-21 FORECASTS “BROWN AGE”
FASHION, SHAPES & TEXTILES
With the importance of brown comes the need for abstraction, of finally growing up and leaving story telling behind. Materials will be judged on their own merit, clothes constructed for their own function, details designed for their own strength of expression; a spherical and cultured style of garment making. Restructuring versus deconstructing, reshaping a more positive period to come. Also rethinking the fashion system and its rhythm.
Textiles will include certain key qualities such as corduroy and velvet, moleskin and denim, brushed cotton and felted woollens, leathers and nylons and teddy and terrycloth. All matter needs to be tactile and vital. Browner shades will dominate abstract jacquards, traditional blanket patterns and folkloric stripes. But in a contemporary twist we will witness that brown will give grace to fluid fabrics, giving innovation to metallic qualities and making laces nude and tender, heralding a new era of softer sensuous lingerie.
Therefore this season is the great turnaround stylish society has been waiting for, renewing fashion and design from within with a clear and activist undertone, harvesting equality and creativity in equal portions.
- Li Edelkoort
S/S 2021: GREEN WAVE
With the ecological green also comes an aesthetic green, since brown is symbolic for the earth it is only natural that green will start to grow from that current. The need for green is so powerful that it will turn around fashion and design without any doubt, sprouting from different political, humanistic and survivalist sources it is impossible to ignore. But maybe the most important thing about green is its capacity to bring joy. Its energy and charisma are compelling and will help us be, combatting despair with optimism and happiness: joy seen as another form of activism.
TRENDS & COLOURS
Times are changing and so are casualwear, activewear, workwear and all other expressions of leisure clothing. For the first time in fashion history they are merging amongst themselves and even with fashion itself, creating a new hybrid category that I now call recreation. The term feels new and fun because it says what it is all about; people taking time to rest and restore, and clothes taking time to evolve, all in the process of being recreated. Illustrating how creativity will help us enjoy time off with our hobbies, activities and sports.
Shapes can go from body-conscious to super-oversized; these influences overlap, where bodywear is worn with outerwear and even one-of-a-kind fashion items. A long skirt counterbalances very casual outfits, for example, or very normal basics are cut up and layered to become new icons.
Furthermore the issue of seasons and gender become increasingly obsolete as well, blending summer and winter qualities and reversing the male/female rules. This all seems to combine into a huge hybrid field, creating a fluid fashion of casual clothes to play with and enjoy.
– Lidewij Edelkoort